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Uniqlo's Yanai says 'no comment,' but will halt business with human rights violators
April 9, 2021 02:33 JST

TOKYO/SHANGHAI -- At an earnings briefing on Thursday, Tadashi Yanai, president of Uniqlo operator Fast Retailing, insisted the Japanese apparel company was neutral when it came to politics.

"Of course if we find any human rights problems in any of our factories or cotton production, we immediately stop doing business" with such a supplier, Yanai said when asked by reporters on China's treatment of its Uyghur Muslim minority population in Xinjiang.

But he added: "We are politically neutral. If I say any more, it will become political, so I will stick to 'no comment'."


2021/04/08 ライター 松下久美



最終更新日: 2020.08.17
中国新疆ウイグル自治区の人権問題を懸念する各種報告書や報道については認識しています。ファーストリテイリンググループの主力ブランドであるユニクロが製品の生産を委託する縫製工場で新疆ウイグル自治区に立地するものはなく、同地区で生産されている製品はありません。また、ユニクロ製品向けの生地や糸を供給する素材工場や紡績工場で、同地区に立地するものもありません。本年3月、「オーストラリア戦略政策研究所(Australian Strategic Policy Institute:ASPI)」が発表した報告書で、ユニクロと関連付けられたYoungor Textile Holdings Co. Ltd、およびQingdao Jifa Huajin Garment Co. Ltdについては、ユニクロとの間に取引はないことを確認しています。

Last Updated: 2020.08.17

We are aware of reports raising serious concerns on the situation for Uighurs in Xinjiang, China. No UNIQLO product is manufactured in the Xinjiang region. In addition, no UNIQLO production partners subcontract to fabric mills or spinning mills in the region.

We are also aware of claims made in a report by the Australian Strategic Policy Institute (ASPI) that links UNIQLO to these two factories: Youngor Textile Holdings Co. Ltd and Qingdao Jifa Huajin Garment Co. Ltd. We can confirm that we do not have any business relationships with these factories.


Vicky Xiuzhong Xu , Danielle Cave , Dr James Leibold , Kelsey Munro & Nathan Ruser
@ASPI_ICPC  01 Mar 2020
‘Re-education’, forced labour and surveillance beyond Xinjiang.

What’s the problem?
The Chinese government has facilitated the mass transfer of Uyghur and other ethnic minority citizens from the far west region of Xinjiang to factories across the country. Under conditions that strongly suggest forced labour, Uyghurs are working in factories that are in the supply chains of at least 82 well-known global brands in the technology, clothing and automotive sectors, including Apple, BMW, Gap, Huawei, Nike, Samsung, Sony and Volkswagen.
中国政府が進めているのはウイグル人などの少数民族を新疆の極西地方から中国内の工場に大量移送することだ。強制労働を思わせる条件の下、ウイグル人が働いている工場は少なくとも82の有名グローバルブランドの供給網の一部で、テクノロジー、アパレル、自動車などの分野で、Apple, BMW, Gap, Huawei, Nike, Samsung, Sony, Volkswagenなどが含まれる

This report estimates that more than 80,000 Uyghurs were transferred out of Xinjiang to work in factories across China between 2017 and 2019, and some of them were sent directly from detention camps. The estimated figure is conservative and the actual figure is likely to be far higher. In factories far away from home, they typically live in segregated dormitories, undergo organised Mandarin and ideological training outside working hours,are subject to constant surveillance, and are forbidden from participating in religious observances. Numerous sources, including government documents, show that transferred workers are assigned minders and have limited freedom of movement.

China has attracted international condemnation for its network of extrajudicial ‘re-education camps’ in Xinjiang. This report exposes a new phase in China’s social re-engineering campaign targeting minority citizens, revealing new evidence that some factories across China are using forced Uyghur labour under a state-sponsored labour transfer scheme that is tainting the global supply chain.


In all, ASPI’s research has identified 82 foreign and Chinese companies potentially directly or indirectly benefiting from the use of Uyghur workers outside Xinjiang through abusive labour transfer programs as recently as 2019: Abercrombie & Fitch, Acer, Adidas, Alstom, Amazon, Apple, ASUS, BAIC Motor, Bestway, BMW, Bombardier, Bosch, BYD, Calvin Klein, Candy, Carter’s, Cerruti 1881, Changan Automobile, Cisco, CRRC, Dell, Electrolux, Fila, Founder Group, GAC Group (automobiles), Gap, Geely Auto, General Motors, Google, Goertek, H&M, Haier, Hart Schaffner Marx, Hisense, Hitachi, HP, HTC, Huawei, iFlyTek, Jack & Jones, Jaguar, Japan Display Inc., L.L.Bean, Lacoste, Land Rover, Lenovo, LG, Li-Ning, Mayor, Meizu, Mercedes-Benz, MG, Microsoft, Mitsubishi, Mitsumi, Nike, Nintendo, Nokia, Oculus, Oppo, Panasonic, Polo Ralph Lauren, Puma, SAIC Motor, Samsung, SGMW, Sharp, Siemens, Skechers, Sony, TDK, Tommy Hilfiger, Toshiba, Tsinghua Tongfang, Uniqlo, Victoria’s Secret, Vivo, Volkswagen, Xiaomi, Zara, Zegna, ZTE. Some brands are linked with multiple factories.

ちょうどいいタイミングというか今週のNew Yorkerでは突然、再教育キャンプに入れられた人物の体験が綴られていました。体制側の不条理を感じることができるレポートです。

A Reporter at Large
April 12, 2021 Issue
As mass detentions and surveillance dominate the lives of China’s Uyghurs and Kazakhs, a woman struggles to free herself.
By Raffi Khatchadourian
April 5, 2021





今週の雑誌ニューヨーカーはInnovators issueだそうです。まだ届いていないので最新号でどんな人が取り上げられているのかわかりませんが、メルマガで過去に紹介された人物の記事リンクがありました。その中の一人がデザイナーの川久保玲さん。そのタイトルがMistfitだったのですが、これを聞くとあの有名なCMを思い浮かべてしまいます。

Rei Kawakubo is a Japanese avant-gardist of few words, and she changed women’s fashion.

By Judith Thurman


2017年05月03日 21:00 JST

「独立心があったからこそ、わたしたちはここまでやってこれました。独立(インディペンデンス)は自由を意味します。だからComme des Garçonsは今後も独立性を守り続けます。自由がもっとも大切なのです。」
「わたしは、アーティストではありません。ファッション・デザインはビジネスです。わたしの仕事なのです。それでも、Comme des Garçonsを通して人々に自由や独立心を与えられたらという思いもあります。服は、自由を与えることができる便利でシンプルな手段です。服は誰もが着るものですから。」



セレブニュースでも注目を集めたMet Galaってこの美術館で開かれていたんですね。

彼女の偉大さ、凄さをよくわからないのですが、New York Timesの検索をかけてみるとこの展覧会もあるからか、多くの記事がヒットしました。特にNew York Times MagazineのInterpreter of Dreamsは読み応えがあります。本当にすごい人にとっては「日本スゲエ」論なんて無用ですね。

Rei Kawakubo,
Interpreter of Dreams

The 74-year-old force behind the avant-garde
label Comme des Garçons makes otherworldly
clothes that express hidden desires and fears.

7 Key Themes in Rei Kawakubo’s Career

Rei Kawakubo, the Nearly Silent Oracle of Fashion

Growing Up in Comme des Garçons
Continue reading the main storyShare This Page





Some of the wealthiest people in America—in Silicon Valley, New York, and beyond—are getting ready for the crackup of civilization.

By Evan Osnos

NPRのFresh Airでも話していました。

Why Some Silicon Valley Tech Executives Are Bunkering Down For Doomsday
January 25, 20172:44 PM ET

この記事はFORTUNE CEO Dailyというメルマガの紹介がコンパクトにまとまっていたのでそちらを紹介します。核ミサイル格納庫を改築したluxury condo retreatsが出てきますが、ここでは「避難所」みたいな意味でいいのではないでしょうか。世界の終わりが来ても逃げ込めるシェルターこそまさに究極のretreatですね。

"Doomsday Prep for the Super-Rich", in the New Yorker , is everything a magazine article should be: Surprising, nuanced, and layered with multiple levels of meaning. As the title conveys, it's about ultra-wealthy types—mostly in Silicon Valley and Wall Street—who have adopted the sorts of survivalist plans that are possible for those with nine-figure assets. (The article appeared before news broke that venture capitalist billionaire and Trump acolyte Peter Thiel obtained citizenship in New Zealand.) One investment chief tells the writer, Evan Osnos, "I keep a helicopter gassed up all the time, and I have an underground bunker with an air-filtration system." Why, yes, I see how those could come in handy. Readers go on to visit an underground former nuclear missile silo near Wichita, Ks., now converted to luxury condo retreats (in the most literal sense) for the wealthy…when the people with the pitchforks come.

「超金持ちのためのこの世の終わりへの備え」は雑誌ニューヨーカーの記事だが、雑誌記事に必要なものがすべて詰まっている。驚きを与え、考えさせられ、重層的な見方を示してくれている。タイトルが伝えている通り、超富裕層の中で、多くがシリコンバレーやウォール街出身だが、緊急事態の備えをしているタイプについてである。この備えは9桁の資産がないと実行できない。(この記事が出てからベンチャーキャピタリストで億万長者のトランプ支持者Peter Thielがニュージランドの国籍を取得したというニュースが飛び込んできた)。ある投資責任者がライターのEvan Osnosに次のように語った「ヘリコプターの燃料を常に満タンにしているし、地下シェルターには空気清浄装置がある」まあ、これらのことは役立つことはわかる。読み進めると、カンザス州ウィチタにある地下の核ミサイル格納庫を訪れることになる。今は裕福な人のため(まさに文字通りの意味で)豪華マンションの避難所に改築されている。

This isn't a story about a handful of quirky paranoiacs. Osnos diagnoses significantly graver social maladies, and they're hardly limited to a few people: "A survey commissioned by National Geographic found that forty per cent of Americans believed that stocking up on supplies or building a bomb shelter was a wiser investment than a 401(k)." He notes that the doomsday preparations accelerated after 2008, sped up some more during Obama's second terms and yes, continue to mount today. In New Zealand, which you'll discover is the lusher, more aesthetically pleasing alternative to an underground silo in Kansas, 13,401 Americans registered—the first step in applying for citizenship—in the days after Donald Trump was elected president. That's more than 17 times the usual rate, according to Osnos.


By the time this article is done, Osnos has astutely compared today's income inequality and rising resentment of the wealthy (at least, as it's perceived by those affluent people) to a similar era more than a century ago, when John D. Rockefeller and Andrew Carnegie were symbols of profligate riches at a moment of stark economic gaps and perceptions of government failure. As Osnos points out, those titans decided to spend their millions to address social ills; the people he describes in this article are using their wealth to flee them.

(この記事が終わるところで、Osnosは今日の収入格差と高まる富裕層への恨み(少なくとも裕福な人が感じているもの)を一世紀以上前の似た時期と鋭く比較している。その時代とはJohn D. RockefellerとAndrew Carnegieが盛大に浪費する金持ちのシンボルとなり、大きな経済格差と政府の失敗という認識があった時である。Osnosが指摘するように、これらの大金持ちたちは大金をはたいて社会問題に取り組んだ。この記事で登場した人物たちは自分たちの富を問題から逃れるために使っている)

ニューヨーカーの記事でもこのような態度はélite survivalism is not a step toward prevention; it is an act of withdrawalと批判気味に書いています。こんな態度の人がシリコンバレーやウォール街にいれば切り捨てられた人々もトランプの唱えるような対策を取りたくなるのもわかります。(賛成はしませんが。。。)

Fear of disaster is healthy if it spurs action to prevent it. But élite survivalism is not a step toward prevention; it is an act of withdrawal. Philanthropy in America is still three times as large, as a share of G.D.P., as philanthropy in the next closest country, the United Kingdom. But it is now accompanied by a gesture of surrender, a quiet disinvestment by some of America’s most successful and powerful people. Faced with evidence of frailty in the American project, in the institutions and norms from which they have benefitted, some are permitting themselves to imagine failure. It is a gilded despair.

As Huffman, of Reddit, observed, our technologies have made us more alert to risk, but have also made us more panicky; they facilitate the tribal temptation to cocoon, to seclude ourselves from opponents, and to fortify ourselves against our fears, instead of attacking the sources of them. Justin Kan, the technology investor who had made a halfhearted effort to stock up on food, recalled a recent phone call from a friend at a hedge fund. “He was telling me we should buy land in New Zealand as a backup. He’s, like, ‘What’s the percentage chance that Trump is actually a fascist dictator? Maybe it’s low, but the expected value of having an escape hatch is pretty high.’ ”

記事のタイトルはthe survival of the richest(金持ち生存)でしたが、the survival of the fittest(適者生存)のもじりですね。

the survival of the fittest
the principle that only the people or things that are best adapted to their surroundings will continue to exist

survival of the fittest
a situation in which only the strongest and most successful people or things continue to exist

"Survival of the fittest" is a phrase that originated from Darwinian evolutionary theory as a way of describing the mechanism of natural selection. The biological concept of fitness is defined as reproductive success. In Darwinian terms the phrase is best understood as "Survival of the form that will leave the most copies of itself in successive generations."



もう2週間も前のNew Yorkerの記事になってしまいました(汗)渡辺由佳利さんのSNSに親しんでいる人ならマサチューセッツ州にあるナンタケット島を何度も目にしていますよね。そこである研究がされているそうです。

Through DNA editing, researchers hope to alter the genetic destiny of species and eliminate diseases.
By Michael Specter

ナンタケット島に生息する人もかかるライム病という感染症を保菌するwhite-footed mouse(シロアシネズミ)に対し、遺伝子ドライブでライム病を持たないネズミを島全体に放してライム病を根絶しようとする取り組みのようです。

Esvelt has spoken about Lyme dozens of times in the past year, not just on Nantucket and Martha’s Vineyard but at forums around the world, from a synthetic-biology symposium in Chile to President Obama’s White House Frontiers Conference, in Pittsburgh. At every appearance, Esvelt tells the audience that he wants his two young children—he has a three-year-old son and a daughter who is almost one—to grow up in a Lyme-free world. But that’s not really why he speaks at infectious-disease meetings, entomology conventions, and international conservation workshops. He has embarked on a mission that he thinks is far more important.

Esvelt and his colleagues were the first to describe, in 2014, how the revolutionary gene-editing tool crispr could combine with a natural phenomenon known as a gene drive to alter the genetic destiny of a species. Gene drives work by overriding the traditional rules of Mendelian inheritance. Normally, the progeny of any sexually reproductive organism receives half its genome from each parent. But since the nineteen-forties biologists have been aware that some genetic elements are “selfish”: evolution has bestowed on them a better than fifty-per-cent chance of being inherited. That peculiarity makes it possible for certain characteristics to spread with unusual speed.

Until crispr came along, biologists lacked the tools to force specific genetic changes across an entire population. But the system, which is essentially a molecular scalpel, makes it possible to alter or delete any sequence in a genome of billions of nucleotides. By placing it in an organism’s DNA, scientists can insure that the new gene will copy itself in every successive generation. A mutation that blocked the parasite responsible for malaria, for instance, could be engineered into a mosquito and passed down every time the mosquito reproduced. Each future generation would have more offspring with the trait until, at some point, the entire species would have it.

gene driveについては下記のナショジオの記事などは日英で読めます。

Genetic Engineering to the Rescue Against Invasive Species?
Scientists call for a public discussion on development of emerging "gene drive" technology.

By Katie Langin, National Geographic



At the meeting on Nantucket, Esvelt assured residents that he and his team fully understood the implications of manipulating the basic elements of life. He said that he regards himself not just as a biologist but as the residents’ agent; if they stop showing interest in the research, he will stop the experiments. He also insists that he will work with absolute openness: every e-mail, grant application, data set, and meeting record will be available for anyone to see. Intellectual property is often the most coveted aspect of scientific research, and Esvelt’s would be posted on a Web site. And no experiment would be conducted unless it was approved in advance—not just by scientists but by the people it is most likely to affect. “By open, I mean all of it,” Esvelt said, to murmurs of approval. “If Monsanto”—which, fairly or not, has become a symbol of excessive corporate control of agricultural biotechnology—“did something one way,” he said, “we will do it the opposite way.”




渡辺由佳里さんも「今だからこそ、届けたいストーリー」というエッセイを寄稿していました。渡辺さんがストーリーの力を信じているところは『ジャンル別 洋書ベスト500』の本の選択にも表れていますね。



マイ・ブラザーズ・キーパー ~ 黒人少年の未来のために:ヒューマン・バラク・オバマ第9回


ちょうどKinder Than Solitudeを書いたYiyun Liさんが立て続けにエッセイと短編小説をNew Yorkerに発表していました。短編小説の方はご本人が朗読もしてくれています。


By Yiyun Li

The Writer's Voice: New Fiction from The New Yorker
Yiyun Li Reads “On the Street Where You Live”


Choosing to renounce a mother tongue.

By Yiyun Li

A metaphor’s desire to transcend diminishes any human story; its ambition to illuminate blinds those who create metaphors. In my distrust of metaphors I feel a kinship with George Eliot: “We all of us, grave or light, get our thoughts entangled in metaphors, and act fatally on the strength of them.” My abandonment of my first language is personal, so deeply personal that I resist any interpretation—political or historical or ethnographical. This, I know, is what my husband was questioning years ago: was I prepared to be turned into a symbol by well-intentioned or hostile minds?

別の場所でもEnglish is my private language.とあくまで個人的なものであると書いています。

When we enter a world—a new country, a new school, a party, a family or a class reunion, an army camp, a hospital—we speak the language it requires. The wisdom to adapt is the wisdom to have two languages: the one spoken to others, and the one spoken to oneself. One learns to master the public language not much differently from the way that one acquires a second language: assess the situations, construct sentences with the right words and the correct syntax, catch a mistake if one can avoid it, or else apologize and learn the lesson after a blunder. Fluency in the public language, like fluency in a second language, can be achieved with enough practice.

Perhaps the line between the two is, and should be, fluid; it is never so for me. I often forget, when I write, that English is also used by others. English is my private language. Every word has to be pondered before it becomes a word. I have no doubt—can this be an illusion?—that the conversation I have with myself, however linguistically flawed, is the conversation that I have always wanted, in the exact way I want it to be.

In my relationship with English, in this relationship with the intrinsic distance between a nonnative speaker and an adopted language that makes people look askance, I feel invisible but not estranged. It is the position I believe I always want in life. But with every pursuit there is the danger of crossing a line, from invisibility to erasure.